Keeping the Character; A Mid-Century Remodel
[All photos by BUILD LLC]
BUILD just put the finishing touches on a Mid-Century Modern home in Seattle’s Wedgwood neighborhood; a community filled with handsome MCM models. This project is a great example of bringing an older residence up to 21st century standards, while retaining the original charm of the home. The design and construction of an existing structure is always tricky to navigate, especially when key items are important to the home’s character. Subsequently, we rely on systems that have proved themselves over the course of numerous projects. The Guide to Updating Mid-Century Modern Homes is a good starting point and working with extraordinary clients who possess a keen sense of humor definitely helps. Today’s post breaks down the remodel into its constituent parts and calls out the specifications and links to fixtures, appliances, materials and all sorts of good stuff. Enjoy the read and let us know what you think.
Exterior
The original T&G cedar siding on the house was replaced and finished with a Sikkens natural cedar semi-transparent stain. Adding a bit of pigment to the stain helps the clear cedar with the inevitable weathering that occurs here in the Pacific Northwest. We painted the garage portion a charcoal grey to fade it back a bit and allow the brick and cedar to stand out. New clear anodized aluminum windows do double duty by keeping the heat in and sharpening up the façade.
Entry
Without ample room for a formally enclosed closet, our SPD cabinet shop developed a clever cabinet box to house coats and provide visual separation among spaces while blending in with the adjacent cabinetry.
Living Room
Retaining the original window geometry, the vaulted living room was outfitted with new Milgard Anodized Aluminum windows. Existing red oak floors were refinished with a white stain by Olde English Hardwoods, Inc.
With the homeowners’ sharp eyes for design, the existing furnishings were a perfect match for the updated home (albeit there was debate over a certain table). To retain some of the historical character and maintain warmth of texture, the existing stone fireplace and wood panel wall above were preserved.
Kitchen
The kitchen was reorganized to open up the room and allow for ample daylight to spill into a seamless kitchen and dining area. The elimination of walls that break up rooms within MCM homes and the addition of key items like an island allow for flexibility between daily use and entertaining. A light color palette on countertop surfaces achieves a desirably bright and airy quality to the overall space.
SPECIFICATIONS
Base and upper cabinets are 3/4” sequenced vertical grain walnut veneer
The open cubby storage cabinets are made of gray Wilsonart laminate on Europly with exposed edges
The countertops, side panels and cabinet pulls all flush out for a clean look.
All cabinets by the Special Projects Division cabinet shop
Chroma countertops with stainless steel backsplash (non-directional finish) are used throughout
The pulls are stainless steel Sugatsune 1000 series
Drawer slides, door hinges and a range of organizers are supplied by Blum’s Motion line
The can lights are 5” diameter recessed down-lights by Lightolier
The pendant lights are Rondelle mini pendants in white
A custom stainless steel sink was designed by BUILD and fabricated by Metal Masters Northwest
We like to mount a low profile button to garbage disposal at the countertop
The faucet is a Brizo Solna single handle with pull down
The refrigerator and range are both Jenn-Air, the hood is a Zephyr and the dishwasher is a Miele
Bathrooms
In order to keep the bathroom open and spacious, the walnut veneer vanity from our SPD cabinet shop is wall-hung 10″ above the floor. A common challenge of updating an MCM bathroom is bringing natural light into a typically small space. A light and bright palette with lines kept simple and unencumbered makes a significant difference; frameless glass panels at the shower enclosure also allow the light to reach deep into the space.
SPECIFICATIONS
Base cabinets are 3/4” sequenced vertical grain walnut veneer topped with Chroma countertops
Frameless glass shower enclosure by Distinctive Glass Inc.
The pulls are also Sugatsune to create a consistent hardware package throughout the home
Tile was provided by Pental and Daltile
The mirror light is an AAMSCO Alinea model
A one piece frameless mirror is used to create a clean, modern plane
Towel bars were supplied by CR Laurence
The shower fixtures are the Stillness series by Kohler
The sink is a Kohler Ladena and the faucet is the G-6102 M.E.2 by Graff
Hit that comments button and let us know what you think.
Additional photos that didn’t make the cut can be found on our Facebook Page.
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By Kyle, December 2, 2011 @ 8:52 am
Due you solely use the aluminum windows for aesthetics? I’ve been going through my house room by room replacing the old wood windows (that won’t even open due to being painted so many times) with vinyl casements (dual, low E, Argon).. I just figure if I’m going to all the trouble I better get something that is really going to perform. Aluminum windows sweat really bad with the humidity down here.. do the point of causing wood rot after a few years and causing the paint on trim around it to bubble off. I will admit that the alum windows “look” much more modern and clean, but I can’t justify it down here. Great looking home by the way, very nice job on the cabinetry!
By Mike D., December 2, 2011 @ 9:20 am
Love the cabinets! Swap out those showerheads for some Flipsides and that’s a really awesome remodel!
By shtrum, December 2, 2011 @ 10:27 am
Question about the ‘hovering’ base cabinets. Is there a fair amount of steel angle bracing tied back to the wall? Unlike wall cabinets, it’s always problematic with counters due to the possibility of someone sitting on them, standing on them to change a light bulb, etc.. With base cabinets, it’s even more of an issue. I remember puzzling over such details in another lifetime, and can imagine more than a few splintered examples by architects have littered the Museum of Nice Tries.
btw: greatly appreciate all the time and effort put into this site. It’s definitely a reflection of your projects.
By jane, December 2, 2011 @ 11:28 am
Small world! I used to work with Scott!! The house and remodel work are beautiful (as usual!)
By archaalto, December 2, 2011 @ 1:27 pm
excellent refurbishment work gentlemen. the new materials and fixtures really captured the MCM spirit while including all the advantages of 21st century living. i strongly believe that if you have good bones to start with, the hardest part is restraining yourself to the good language that already exists. bravo on another job well done!
By Rane, December 2, 2011 @ 5:15 pm
Hmmmmm, everytime I look through one of these posts I’m struck by a couple things. First they are well written and fun to read, the photos are great but mostly the work looks immaculate and so well thought out. It’s endless eye candy. Thanks for sharing.
By Amy Stoddard, December 2, 2011 @ 8:43 pm
I have another question about windows. How do you feel about fiberglass window frames? I live in a four season climate of Southeast Michigan (a suburb of Detroit). While I love DougFir on the interior, I see them becoming problematic.
By Chris, December 2, 2011 @ 9:01 pm
Nice job. We are in the process of a similar sort and scheme of kitchen remodel.
What grid spacing do you use on the 5″ recessed cans?
A few comments:
The horizontal pulls seem to heavy weight and compete for attention, I think with the wood grain something more subtle might be nicer.
Why bother with a custom fabricated stainless steel under-mount sink? These are available everywhere at reasonable prices (see Ticor and Vigo brands on Overstock).
I see why you might not fill the metal backsplash all the way up to the bottom of the upper cabinets due to the window sill line, but I have to wonder what the left side of the kitchen window looked like (not shown), maybe you could have made it work.
By Chris, December 2, 2011 @ 9:06 pm
Oh, I see the rest of the backsplash in the other photo. It looks like there is no backsplash (only drywall) behind the cooking surface, is that right?
By Build LLC, December 3, 2011 @ 10:08 am
@Kyle -modern double pane aluminum windows with a decent U-value don’t sweat much here in the Pacific Northwest. What little moisture that does occur can be kept at bay with the proper detailing.
By Build LLC, December 3, 2011 @ 10:08 am
@Mike – we just knew you’d catch that.
By Build LLC, December 3, 2011 @ 10:12 am
@shtrum -actually, there isn’t ANY steel used with the floating cabinet to wall connection. Instead we provide the adequate blocking between studs just after framing and before drywall so that we’ve got plenty of structure behind the wall. We then screw or lag-bolt a ledger to the finish of the wall and literally hang the cabinet on the ledger. We’ve used this detail on dozens of cabinet packages now and it’s holding up well. Thanks for the compliments.
By Build LLC, December 3, 2011 @ 10:13 am
@Jane -you’re quick on the blog! Thanks for checking it out.
By Build LLC, December 3, 2011 @ 10:15 am
@archaalto -indeed, the MCMs are less about creative exploration and more about a discipline of the existing language.
By Build LLC, December 3, 2011 @ 10:15 am
@Rane -thanks! You made our day.
By Build LLC, December 3, 2011 @ 10:18 am
@Amy – we struggle with fiberglass window frames. While they work incredibly well with the energy code, the finished look is always so “plasticky”. We’ve seen a few hybrids that use a combination of fir on the inside and fiberglass on the outside -so they’re getting closer to a good product. Currently we’re sticking to Clear Anodized and Bronze Anodized Aluminum windows on most of our projects.
By Build LLC, December 3, 2011 @ 10:25 am
@Chris -the general rule of thumb we use for the spacing of can lights is 5 or 6 feet for areas of high use (kitchens, living rooms). You can go a bit more for areas like bedrooms. Most importantly -line them up!
Regarding the cabinet pulls – we’ve been working on a few “pull-less” cabinet face prototypes lately so that nothing competes with that beautiful walnut grain. Funny thing is, the cabinets almost seem naked. You’re comment is well received though.
We design the custom stainless steel under-mount sinks because it’s actually less expensive to have our steel shop make them than buying them off the shelf (nice ones can be quite pricey). Plus we can get custom (deeper) dimensions.
We occasionally bring the stainless steel backsplash up to the upper cabinets and it’s a nice look. Here’s a good example http://blog.buildllc.com/2009/10/traditional-modern-architecture/
Thanks for the questions -we always love getting into the details.
By Huy Truong, December 3, 2011 @ 5:05 pm
hi Kevin
Great job. I see you had used wood for exterior. Could you tell me what type of treatment used?
Huy
By Build LLC, December 4, 2011 @ 5:06 pm
@Huy -Clear T&G cedar siding finished with a Sikkens natural cedar semi-transparent stain
By Amy Stoddard, December 4, 2011 @ 7:17 pm
Just want to say, “Thanks” for answering my windows question.
By Jeremy Tittle, December 5, 2011 @ 11:11 am
Really like your designs and remodels been lurking around your site for a few months now. Will for sure be looking you up when we get around to re-doing our kitchen at our new home in Magnolia.
Can you share the cost per sq on the hardwood refurbishing by chance?
Jeremy
By Wade, December 5, 2011 @ 11:20 am
Do you guys know who the original architect of the house was?
Very classy remodel, as usual.
By Steve in Seattle, December 5, 2011 @ 12:06 pm
Thanks for the detailed post! You wrote that adding pigment to the siding stain “helps the clear cedar with the inevitable weathering.” Does the pigment delay graying, even it out, or what? Is there a type of wood or a treatment to avoid graying altogether?
By dcbiglew, December 5, 2011 @ 3:28 pm
Very nice work and incredible detailing as always. You’ve managed to update the house whilst respecting and representing the spirit of the MCM model. Well done. I’m quite a big fan of the specs that you include on your projects keep it up
By Kevin E, December 5, 2011 @ 3:37 pm
Hi Jeremy,
The floors are approximately $4/sf to refinish. Our preferred contractor is Olde English Hardwoods- Blake is an outstanding guy.
Looking forward to seeing your project come along.
By Kevin E, December 5, 2011 @ 3:39 pm
Steve-
Basically, pigment prolongs the life of the siding by keeping the finish from breaking down (quickly) due to UV rays. Graying is somewhat inevitable, we’re simply trying to delay and slow the graying down.
By Build LLC, December 5, 2011 @ 9:54 pm
@Wade -we think the original architect was H. S. Haguewood (thanks to Scott)
By Amy Stoddard, December 23, 2011 @ 6:54 pm
What color are the doors in this house? Are they walnut veneer?
We’re remodeling and I’m looking online everywhere for flush, solid-core, prehung walnut veneer doors. In addition to ripping out our doors we’re taking off the nasty moulding, so we’re repairing drywall.
Can you make a suggestion for the doors described above? ie. A National Retailer? Thanks for your time.
By mcl, March 26, 2012 @ 1:10 pm
Hello – We LOVE the refinished red oak floors. We are refinishing our old red oak floors. We like the modern look of light maple. Everyone told us we had to stain the red oak floors dark, but I see that you did an AMAZING job at redoing these floors in a modern light floor (without it looking too honey). How did you do it? When I mention “white stain” which is what the article mentioned to conttactors, they think I mean painting part of floors, white. Please share how you went about refinishing the floors to be light contemporary color. Thank you!