
[All photos by BUILD LLC]
A residential project of ours is currently being framed, which means that we’re spending lots of time on site checking the structure in relation to our design intent. Framing is tricky – it sets the stage for everything else about the project and an overlooked detail in framing can have serious repercussions with the finished product later. There’s a handful of tips and tricks that separate crisp, modern architecture from ordinary projects; we’ve rounded up our top 10 bullet points along with some recent site photos. Let us know what you know.

1. Make sure the framer understands your custom details; a little due diligence goes a long ways to saving the bottom line. Nobody wants to remodel the remodel.
2. Make sure that the plumbers, electricians and mechanic installers don’t have a chainsaw in their truck. Sub contractors that simply hack-away at the framing to fit their systems into the design will end up compromising the structural integrity as well as the design aesthetics. Good sub-contractors use communication and negotiating rather than logging equipment.

3. Think through alignment issues; door and window heads should line up inside (ideally with a sweet no-casing drywall wrap) as well as line up outside, which means the framing needs to offset so that the finish conditions align. Also, sometimes you need to offset adjacent framing so that when different types of finishes are added to surfaces, you still get alignment.
4. Look for opportunities to recess/conceal framing hardware, like straps, brackets, etc. that give you headaches when going for finish because they interfere with a smooth modern finish.

5. Take the appropriate time on the very last round of pick-up framing to shim/ shave where needed for a flat finish.
6. Place blocking wherever you might suspect you need it- both for things like bath hardware (picture your six-year old hanging on the t.p. holder) and for other things like door or recess light tracks that you may want to recess into the sheetrock. Sometimes, we’ll plywood sheath entire walls if we’re unclear about hooks, shelving, etc.

7. Take time to adjust joist lay-out before the floor is framed to ensure that the can-lights will hit the lines you intend. Take time to block out/ adjust framing for venting, future speakers, etc. so that they’ll align with can lighting or other devices.
8. There are often different blocking needs in modern projects; for instance we design flush base details and low horizontal outlets; each of these requires a band of low blocking around the room.

9. Triple check framing at any place where cabinetry or other tricky installs will meet a wall or ceiling finish.
10. Layout basic devices ,fixtures and appliances ASAP; this will help determine duct runs, waste pathways, and troublesome areas.















definitely my favorite part of construction, and some nice photos… …
what about thermal bridging due to all the blocking – or is that only at interior walls?
@Mike -ideally if the blocking is in an exterior 2×6 wall, the blocking would be 2×4 to reduce the thermal bridging and at least get a bit of insulation behind the blocking.
It’s nice to see some well composed construction photos. There’s this notion out there that if you’re out on site during construction, the photos you take can/should look like crap. It’s refreshing to see that you guys put some thought into the images.
@Richter -thanks! Agreed, construction photos should look just as good as finished photos. Having a decent camera and some simple know-how makes a tremendous difference.
So nice to see good framing again, I’m finding that southern California standards are far from the northwest’s attention to detail!
@Meredith -sounds like you’ve got some good stories.
You wouldn’t believe the tales I have to tell, I hardly can and I’m living them!
What is your philosophy on dimensioning your drawings? Dimension to framing or finish? If you dimension to framing, how do you account for finishes and built-ins? Just had a big debate about this recently.
@Mitchell -we dimension to framing, face of sheathing and face of concrete. That way we can do the math in the office rather than relying on math on site. Finishes and built-ins are dealt with case by case. If the finishes are unusual (not just 5/8″ drywall) sometimes we’ll update portions of the drawings after framing is complete to accommodate more refined dimensions. It all depends on the job though and clear communication is typically better than numbers on drawings.
Lets not kid ourselves here… I’ve worked in four of the western state and our construction quality here is no better then average. If fact give the hellish wet winter weather our framing here is typically way below average. Come folks let’s keep it real
Hey guys, wondered what timber you used for framing generally?
Down here we use plantation radiata pine for pretty much everything eventually hidden.
Nice post, and cool pics. I’d certainly enjoying framing so much more if the jobs offered this kind of creativity. You’re spot on with #1 – you have to go over the details with the framer, or they’ll do it the way they always have. And that’s a good time to check that the framers aren’t packing chain saws!
@amr – in the Pacific NW it’s typically Douglas Fir or “Hem-Fir” as we call it; a combination of Western Hemlock and either California Red Fir, Grand Fir, Noble Fir, Pacific Silver Fir, or White Fir.
Hi, love your posts… As an Australian, I’m curious to know the origin/purpose of sheathing in US residential construction. We don’t sheath framework. For wind bracing we calculate wind-loading and use a combination of diagonal steel bracing to studs, or plywood panels nailed to the face of selected ext. or int. walls (as needed and where it can be used w/out interfering with wall cladding/linings). Is it mandated by your building codes? Is it an expensive form of insulation or a substrate for fixing of traditional claddings such as timber shakes/shingles? Why is it needed?
@Andrew -sheathing here in the US is typically used for lateral integrity, it also provides a consistent backing to apply siding systems to. While it’s not mandated by the building codes it is a conventional system; permit reviewers and inspectors are familiar with it. While using braced frames or the selective use of plywood panels would be acceptable in the US, it could easily end up costing more in engineering fees or specialty site work.
another quick question about your sheathing – while the plywood looks beautiful, why not use the much cheaper osb? is there an environmental reason that I’m not aware of? thanks,
@Ryan -because OSB is exactly that, cheaper. It isn’t as strong and it weathers terribly -especially in damper climates like the Pacific Northwest. And who knows what sort of toxic adhesives hold that stuff together.
our approach to this issue was moving indoors off site. We made shop drawings and framed and sheathed the walls for the project in the link in our shop. We were able to finish all of the framing during foundation work and installed all of the walls with a boom truck in a couple of days. Dry in time is much shorter, less commuting to the job, neighbors get less bothered,reduction of job site waste, very tight framing tolerances, safer than site built , etc. https://picasaweb.google.com/101747091353614695756/UunlimitedincShopframe?authkey=Gv1sRgCMqfvI_zz8mO7QE
@Eitan -interesting, thanks for the link to the pics. Where is the site?
this project is in Walnut Creek CA. We are based in Berkeley CA.
The resins used to bond exterior plywood & osb are usu. phenol-formaldehydes. all panel products have good and bad attributes, including plywood.