Comments on: Rainscreens http://blog.buildllc.com/2008/03/rainscreens/ A discussion of modern design from the Northwest Sat, 11 Feb 2012 06:35:35 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v= By: Charlie http://blog.buildllc.com/2008/03/rainscreens/comment-page-2/#comment-10277 Charlie Thu, 05 Jan 2012 22:23:08 +0000 http://buildllc.wordpress.com/?p=1116#comment-10277 Great information and products. I am using a 3/8" furring strip to give us air space between wall and wester red cedar siding. We were not going to use any space between boards. We could vent at the bottom but would we need to vent at the to? It is a parapet wall with mental cap on top. What is your thought. Great information and products. I am using a 3/8″ furring strip to give us air space between wall and wester red cedar siding. We were not going to use any space between boards. We could vent at the bottom but would we need to vent at the to? It is a parapet wall with mental cap on top. What is your thought.

]]> By: Build LLC http://blog.buildllc.com/2008/03/rainscreens/comment-page-2/#comment-9369 Build LLC Wed, 17 Aug 2011 16:09:03 +0000 http://buildllc.wordpress.com/?p=1116#comment-9369 @Ion -we entirely agree about wrapping the house up airtight and then needing to create airflow. Traditional construction techniques quite often allow the house to "breathe" better. Unfortunately the building code enforces a different set of requirements. Rainscreens tend to balance this out - the structure can meet state and city codes, while the assembly allows some air flow. Rainscreen systems also allow quite a bit of freedom with the siding materials. As you've said - sensibility is the most economical approach. You haven't missed anything. @Ion -we entirely agree about wrapping the house up airtight and then needing to create airflow. Traditional construction techniques quite often allow the house to “breathe” better. Unfortunately the building code enforces a different set of requirements.

Rainscreens tend to balance this out – the structure can meet state and city codes, while the assembly allows some air flow. Rainscreen systems also allow quite a bit of freedom with the siding materials.

As you’ve said – sensibility is the most economical approach. You haven’t missed anything.

]]> By: Ion Barnes http://blog.buildllc.com/2008/03/rainscreens/comment-page-2/#comment-9365 Ion Barnes Wed, 17 Aug 2011 06:46:46 +0000 http://buildllc.wordpress.com/?p=1116#comment-9365 Yes the 6" clearance minimum is a must, however I have never really embraced the 'new' concepts that deem that the house should be air tight and then have to build in ways to venilate. That has alway be a contradiction. And early on these house were having problems with mold.Heat loss should not be confused with air tight. Air flow vs drafts. Bugs will find their way into cracks and crevices. Blue bees will plug a 1/4" hole. Spiders will spin webs inside a space so well that air flow will not be present, hence moisture will be retained and invite other insects such as termites and carpenter ants. Hope I dont sound like a doomsayer, but the housing industry has been selling us a belts and braces attitude costs us money when sensiblity is the economical approach. I should add that I have never heard of the term 'rainscreen' before but am familiar with the air gap required for masonary and houses wrapped in Tyvek or similar. My house, built in the early 80's has tar paper under the cedar siding and we have not had any mold or dampness issues or insect problems. Have I missed something? Yes the 6″ clearance minimum is a must, however I have never really embraced the ‘new’ concepts that deem that the house should be air tight and then have to build in ways to venilate. That has alway be a contradiction. And early on these house were having problems with mold.Heat loss should not be confused with air tight. Air flow vs drafts. Bugs will find their way into cracks and crevices. Blue bees will plug a 1/4″ hole. Spiders will spin webs inside a space so well that air flow will not be present, hence moisture will be retained and invite other insects such as termites and carpenter ants. Hope I dont sound like a doomsayer, but the housing industry has been selling us a belts and braces attitude costs us money when sensiblity is the economical approach.

I should add that I have never heard of the term ‘rainscreen’ before but am familiar with the air gap required for masonary and houses wrapped in Tyvek or similar. My house, built in the early 80′s has tar paper under the cedar siding and we have not had any mold or dampness issues or insect problems. Have I missed something?

]]> By: Build LLC http://blog.buildllc.com/2008/03/rainscreens/comment-page-2/#comment-9355 Build LLC Tue, 16 Aug 2011 17:04:30 +0000 http://buildllc.wordpress.com/?p=1116#comment-9355 @Ion -the typical code here in Washington state is to maintain a minimum of 6" between the ground and wood siding. Meeting this minimum helps keep the bugs and moisture out. Hardiplank should also help fight against water and critters. @Ion -the typical code here in Washington state is to maintain a minimum of 6″ between the ground and wood siding. Meeting this minimum helps keep the bugs and moisture out. Hardiplank should also help fight against water and critters.

]]> By: Ion Barnes http://blog.buildllc.com/2008/03/rainscreens/comment-page-2/#comment-9344 Ion Barnes Sat, 13 Aug 2011 17:03:39 +0000 http://buildllc.wordpress.com/?p=1116#comment-9344 I live on Vancouver Island, Wet coast of Canada and I had an infestation of carpenter ants attemp to feed on my mobile home. They crawled over the drip edge flashing and up between the corrigations of the metal siding then ate their way through the 5/16 plywood. When I built my home, I made sure that I had more than a reasonable height between the ground and the siding and I incorperated wide overhangs to provide a dry walkway around the house. After 25 years the cedar siding is begining to lift and I find the odd carpentry ant trying to investigate access to my home. Best I can say is they must have access to water and they wont find it in my walls! It is my intention to replace the cedar with hardiplank as we are in a forrestfire risk area. I live on Vancouver Island, Wet coast of Canada and I had an infestation of carpenter ants attemp to feed on my mobile home. They crawled over the drip edge flashing and up between the corrigations of the metal siding then ate their way through the 5/16 plywood.

When I built my home, I made sure that I had more than a reasonable height between the ground and the siding and I incorperated wide overhangs to provide a dry walkway around the house.

After 25 years the cedar siding is begining to lift and I find the odd carpentry ant trying to investigate access to my home. Best I can say is they must have access to water and they wont find it in my walls!

It is my intention to replace the cedar with hardiplank as we are in a forrestfire risk area.

]]> By: roll forming http://blog.buildllc.com/2008/03/rainscreens/comment-page-2/#comment-7956 roll forming Tue, 28 Jun 2011 03:53:01 +0000 http://buildllc.wordpress.com/?p=1116#comment-7956 aluminum channel.. Thanks alot!! -Greg aluminum channel..
Thanks alot!!
-Greg

]]> By: Greg http://blog.buildllc.com/2008/03/rainscreens/comment-page-2/#comment-7721 Greg Tue, 10 May 2011 18:55:43 +0000 http://buildllc.wordpress.com/?p=1116#comment-7721 Thank you-Thank you for your blog! I want a smooth non-fastener appearance to my fiber cement panel siding which Id assume using proper nail application & feather out nails with fine cement (like drywall). Here's an example from Australia which is a look I want//this house shows a seamless metal panel roof to FCP siding smooth transition so im guessing to achieve that the rainscreen has to wrap from roof to walls, basically everything? or the metal roof panels have a u-channel between each panel for no water penetration on roof... Klien Bottle House (Australia): http://www.archdaily.com/7952/klein-bottle-house-mcbride-charles-ryan/ If you want to expound more on this house's irregular siding shapes please do. Construction Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lamidesign/sets/72157606565238082/ I know they used Hardi Villaboard 6mm for the large balcony soffit & taped the seams..I wonder if all that green is the tile adhesive coating they use over there. Other example of feathered out fasteners: http://huddartshouse.blogspot.com/2011/05/painting-progress.html Interesting>This guy used Minerit Lightweight FCP coated with masonry sealer for his shower> Fastened with construction adhesive to hardi backer for a seamless non-fastner look, caulked seams. http://livemodern.com/forums/materialsmethods/865609165 I wonder if the Aussie house caulked the seams or used some aluminum channel.. Thanks alot!! -Greg Thank you-Thank you for your blog!
I want a smooth non-fastener appearance to my fiber cement panel siding which Id assume using proper nail application & feather out nails with fine cement (like drywall). Here’s an example from Australia which is a look I want//this house shows a seamless metal panel roof to FCP siding smooth transition so im guessing to achieve that the rainscreen has to wrap from roof to walls, basically everything? or the metal roof panels have a u-channel between each panel for no water penetration on roof…
Klien Bottle House (Australia):
http://www.archdaily.com/7952/klein-bottle-house-mcbride-charles-ryan/
If you want to expound more on this house’s irregular
siding shapes please do.
Construction Photos:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lamidesign/sets/72157606565238082/
I know they used Hardi Villaboard 6mm for the large balcony soffit & taped the seams..I wonder if all that green is the tile adhesive coating they use over there.

Other example of feathered out fasteners:
http://huddartshouse.blogspot.com/2011/05/painting-progress.html

Interesting>This guy used Minerit Lightweight FCP coated with masonry sealer for his shower> Fastened with construction adhesive
to hardi backer for a seamless non-fastner look, caulked seams.
http://livemodern.com/forums/materialsmethods/865609165

I wonder if the Aussie house caulked the seams or used some
aluminum channel..
Thanks alot!!
-Greg

]]> By: Build LLC http://blog.buildllc.com/2008/03/rainscreens/comment-page-2/#comment-7664 Build LLC Wed, 27 Apr 2011 21:30:38 +0000 http://buildllc.wordpress.com/?p=1116#comment-7664 @Tristin -thanks for the tip, we'll check out the rocksiding. CBF calls their new product "Sil-Leed" -it's very similar to Cembonite. @Tristin -thanks for the tip, we’ll check out the rocksiding. CBF calls their new product “Sil-Leed” -it’s very similar to Cembonite.

]]> By: Tristin P http://blog.buildllc.com/2008/03/rainscreens/comment-page-2/#comment-7663 Tristin P Wed, 27 Apr 2011 21:07:04 +0000 http://buildllc.wordpress.com/?p=1116#comment-7663 It looks like CBF is no longer supplying Cembonit in North American. One other material we've used comes out of Canada - we used on a house on Capitol Hill. Check out rocksiding dot com. Rather than a panel, it's linear cementitious planks hung on metal runners. Easy on, easy off - and so far no vandalism! It looks like CBF is no longer supplying Cembonit in North American. One other material we’ve used comes out of Canada – we used on a house on Capitol Hill. Check out rocksiding dot com. Rather than a panel, it’s linear cementitious planks hung on metal runners. Easy on, easy off – and so far no vandalism!

]]> By: Build LLC http://blog.buildllc.com/2008/03/rainscreens/comment-page-2/#comment-7262 Build LLC Wed, 09 Mar 2011 16:18:01 +0000 http://buildllc.wordpress.com/?p=1116#comment-7262 @Rita -yes, we've used some of the Tamlyn accessory trims in the past. We've typically found them to be a bit bulky, but they paint out nicely with the panels. @Rita -yes, we’ve used some of the Tamlyn accessory trims in the past. We’ve typically found them to be a bit bulky, but they paint out nicely with the panels.

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