Build Blog » Rainscreens

MARCH 5TH, 2008
By BUILD LLC

Rainscreens

Despite the growing popularity of rainscreen systems, we find that most people don’t know much about them and don’t understand why they are important to architecture. Like most innovative building systems it was the Europeans that first introduced the concept. One of the first examples we remember seeing is the IRCAM music school completed in Paris in the late 70’s by Renzo Piano. In the last decade we’ve noticed a growing interest and use of raincreens on buildings and houses here in the northwest. The concept of a rainscreen is to create an air gap between the siding material and the water-proof surface. This allows the structure to breathe a bit. Current building codes require structures to be sealed up so tightly that it’s causing unforeseen problems. More traditional siding systems often trap moisture between the various layers of materials. Differences in air pressure between the outside and inside of a building can actually drive air and, more dangerously, water into the building. The rainscreen system uses a water proof membrane to keep the water out, but it allows a bit of air movement – it’s like a Gore-tex wrap for your building or house. This membrane is a softer, more delicate material, it’s also sensitive to sunlight; UV rays will eventually break down the product if directly exposed. This is where the siding comes in. The siding, or skin of the building, is required for protection from physical harm like soccer balls and also to shield the membrane from sunlight. There is typically an air gap between the skin and the membrane of approximately one inch. If detailed and constructed correctly the system allows the building to breathe, allows the inside and outside air pressure to balance better and allows a tremendous variety of materials to be used as the skin. It is a more expensive system and requires more time and care for the installation but a well made rainscreen is hot, modern and functional.

Rainscreen Diagram by BUILD llc

1. Panel: Panel thicknesses vary; we’ve found most of them to be 5/16” thick. Panel sizes are typically 4’ x 8’ and 4’ x 10’. Products that we’ve had success with so far are Cembonit by CBF, Hardie-Panel, Swiss Pearl, Fincolorply, and Cor-ten steel.
2. Fastener: Typically we use a #8 wood screw with a gasketed hex head. Some panel types require specific fasteners. It’s also possible to flush mount flat head screws if the panels are properly pre-drilled, and if you have a lot of free-time. The fastener geometry is typically 12 to 24 inches on center in each direction. It’s very important to line the fasteners up on a grid as the fastener pattern becomes part of the finished look of the rainscreen system.
3. Vertical Runners: Trex is a great product for this application because it doesn’t move axially and it doesn’t rot. The dimensions of the runners entirely depend on the specifications required of the panel product – we tend to use 3/4” x 3/4” strips more often than anything else. Cedar or pressure treated lumber can also be used, be cautious of the expansion and contraction of these products.
4. Air Space: The dimension of air space typically ranges between ¾” to 1-1/2” depending on the panel product specifications
5. Membrane: This membrane is basically like Gore-tex for your house – it keeps the water out but lets air through (it lets your house breathe). There are many different brands, we like VaproShield because of the products function, durability and that they just started making it in black so that the membrane disappears in the shadows.
6. Flashing: The flashing we use at window wraps (like the one above) is typically a peel & stick application. It is flexible to deal with all sorts of different situations and angles.
7. Sheathing: You can either use ½” plywood and install flat blocking at all of the panel joints or use ¾” plywood behind all panels – we recommend the ¾” as it is MUCH less work. In either case you’ll want to use CDX plywood – don’t use that OSB crap here.
8. Framing: Typically 2×6 framing at exterior walls but this could vary depending on the situation.
9. Reveal: Typically ¼” but this varies with the panel product and desired finish look.

Okay, let’s get to some examples around the Seattle area:

Seattle Orthopedic Center at 2409 N 45th St
The project seems to use the Fincolorply system, or something very close to it. A very well crafted building that we recommend checking out. It displays two-different panel types.
Architect: Collins Woerman

Seattle Orthopedic Center

Seattle Orthopedic Center
[Photos by BUILD llc]

The William H. Foege Building at NE Pacific Str & 15th Ave NE
The panels seem to be a fired clay, almost brick-like in look and texture. The building is a very impressive display of the rainscreen system
Architect: Anshen + Allen

William H. Foege Building

William H. Foege Building
[Photos by BUILD llc]

Medina Residence near Seattle
The residence uses the Swiss Pearl system and is designed with the precision of a cabinet at the exterior. The panel system continues inside to certain areas of the interior.
Architect: BUILD llc

Medina residence

Medina residence
[Photos by Swiss Pearl]

Camano Cabin on Camano Island
The residence uses steel cor-ten panels as its rainscreen. The panels develop a layer of rust which continues to weather over time but protects the inner layers of the panel.
Architect: BUILD llc

Camano Cabin

Camano Cabin
[Photos by BUILD llc]

Dr. Marc Ferrin Residence on Bainbridge Island
The residence has just been wrapped with the membrane and will soon be receiving a skin of Cembonit rainscreen.
Architect: BUILD llc

Dr. Marc Ferrin Residence

Dr. Marc Ferrin Residence
[Photos by BUILD llc]

It’s taken us several years and many jobs to gather the resources and knowledge about these rainscreen systems. So why do we take the time & effort to post this info online for anyone to use and distribute for free? Because the battle against ugly, senseless architecture is a tough one and we need all the help we can get. Cheers

BUILD Behind the Scenes, Rural Architecture, Suburban Architecture, Technical, Urban Architecture

63 Comments

By Markus Kolb, March 5, 2008 @ 11:14 am

Thanks for sharing! As you note, rainscreens have been around for a long time, and I remember learning about the rainscreen principle way back in school. The way it was explained back then was that the screen itself was intended to shed water mechanically while still allowing air circulation and pressure equalization in the cavity (kind of like installing lap siding over furring strips, with screened air inlets at the top & bottom). With that in mind, I tend to think of applications with gapped panels, which allow for some rain penetration, as “open rainscreens”. Any thoughts on issues with UV resistance of the weather barrier membrane, and for that matter, insects taking up residence in the cavity behind the panels?
Nice work!
By buildllc, March 5, 2008 @ 11:46 am

Markus – good points. Indeed, the term “open rainscreen” is applicable to the types of systems in this post. Technically a “closed” system could also function just fine – similar to the lap siding over furring strips you mention.

While the rainscreen should shed most of the water mechanically the water proof barrier still needs to be designed as if it is the only defense against water – especially with these waterfront homes in the northwest.

The bug issue is always something we worry about but haven’t had problems with so far. We suspect that there is something in the membrane that bugs don’t like. Introducing a bug repellent membrane would be a very marketable addition for VaproShield though. On one of our projects a mesh bug-screen was installed behind the panels – this will do a great job at keeping everything out of the air gap; it generates its own set of challenges and weathering issues though.

We haven’t had any problems with the UV resistance once the skin is on – so long as the skin is detailed and built correctly with reveals of 1/4″ or smaller the constantly changing angle of the sun (when it’s out here in the northwest) doesn’t expose any of the membrane long enough to break down the material. However during construction, it’s always challenging to get the skin on quickly enough so that the fully exposed membrane doesn’t get too much sunlight. The products continue to improve and we suspect that eventually the membrane itself will be UV resistant.
By Bret, March 5, 2008 @ 12:59 pm

Terrific post!

One thing that we’ve recognized about rainscreen systems is that they are very similar in principle to masonry veneer systems that have been around for many years – exposed masonry with air gap separating it from the membrane. This just makes sense. Yes, thanks for sharing.
By Sarah, March 5, 2008 @ 4:50 pm

Fascinating, and very useful. I’m curious about how well these systems work in harsher climates – for example, in conditions of ice, snow, or blowing snow.
By buildllc, March 5, 2008 @ 6:19 pm

Thanks for the comments all- glad you enjoyed the summary. As for your comment Sarah- you raise an excellent point- we had one panel crack on a screen system where the fastener hole didn’t allow for the differential movement between the runner and the panel. Larger variations in temperature, humidity, etc. will only exacerbate this issue. Following the recommendations of product manufacturers (which will invariably rule out some products based on specific climates) is always a good initial design step.
By jay dokken, March 5, 2008 @ 9:33 pm

I just want to say I really like your blog. It’s so refreshing to know there are people out there that are concerned with the greater good. It would have been easy for you guys to talk about self centered hype and have your blog function as a promotion for your studio, but you choose not to.

Keep up the fabulous work!

-jay
By shawnbusse, March 6, 2008 @ 12:42 am

Hey Guys,

Incredible post! Thanks for sharing the screen-luv.

I put a quick post on my blog: http://www.shawnbusse.com/private/houseblog/rainscreen-design

One quick question: Why CDX and not OSB for sheathing? I’m not partial to one or the other, but I see lots of OSB in use in Portland…
By buildllc, March 6, 2008 @ 9:07 am

Shawn – CDX is a stronger product and you can also get it in marine grades. Since the rainscreen is essentially “hanging” off the sheathing, something with more integrity in more directions is required. Oriented Strand Board comes apart more easily and doesn’t deal well with water. It has a confusing name – there’s nothing oriented about the product, the wood wafers are glued up in entirely random patterns.
By shawnbusse, March 6, 2008 @ 10:00 am

Thanks guys – that’s great info!
By Chris, March 9, 2008 @ 10:19 pm

Thanks for info and sharing. Greatly appreciated.

What type of fasteners did you use with the corten panels on the Camano Island project? Are they a black anodized fastener? Also, could you post an image or detail of the mesh bug screen assembly?
By buildllc, March 10, 2008 @ 8:30 am

Chris-
We used a black #1 flathead self-tapping screw made out of a material that currently escapes our memory. It is a common fastener through companies like Fastenal, McMaster Carr and our very own Tacoma Screw. I believe you can find it by using that limited spec I gave you and requesting the type that is corrosion resistant…
The mesh is used on the vertical seams of the panels. We recommend a tight metal screen (yellow jackets can’t eat through it) fastened to the vertical runners on either side of the vertical gap. For the horizontal seams, a small drip flashing can be used that fills the gap and laps (a tiny bit) over the panel below. For doors/ windows, the last runner can be placed (very nearly) against the window/ door frame to close the gap.
Frankly, we have not experienced problems with ‘open screens’ and pests; and the amount of gymnastics required to pest-proof (and perhaps trap pests in?!) is problematic and fussy. Not to promise against pests, but we haven’t experienced those ourselves….
By mike, March 13, 2008 @ 10:47 pm

nice post. for some reason, i find a lot of architects know nothing about rainscreens – confounding. it’s used a lot overseas, esp. in DE, CH and AT. i’ve got a few photos of an extreme ventilated rainscreen in basel.

the collins woermann project (on 45th) does look like prodema/parklex. basically parklex and prodema are offshoots of same product both pricey, one is less expensive than the other (i think prodema). it looks a little artificial, but not as orange as OSKA’s sw branch library.

CO architect’s foege bldg is a terracotta rainscreen – not shildan($$$) but still a nice product – maybe terreal terracotta? i really like the thinner “baguette” as sunscreens.

of course your work speaks for itself. how has the medina’s swisspearl weathered? and the corten? after a rick joy lecture about the nomad house (corten huts), there was a really ‘heated’ debate about using metal in the desert – but pulling it off the building is an effective way of keeping it cooler.

the exposed fasteners are always a bonus. additionally, you must specify the ‘swiss norm’ – all slots or hex’s must be oriented in the same direction…

another benefit to ventilated rainscreens is the “chimney effect” – increased cooling in summer and the same space further insulates in winter – thus making it ideal in temperate climates. the increased ventilation reduces mold/mildew build up (highly beneficial here in NW)

some other products:
minerit
eternit/swisspearl
slatescape
plywood – cheap and effective, a la h&dem’s plywood house & studio frei near vitra
trespa
terraclad

metal systems (rheinzink, copper) are equally nice
By buildllc, March 14, 2008 @ 8:53 am

Mike – we’d love to see that rainscreen in Basel. The Medina residence is just wrapping up so we haven’t had a chance to see how the Swiss Pearl weathers yet. The corten weathers quite nicely here in the northwest with all of the salty sea air. Sometimes we’ll spray down the panels with salt water prior to installation to jump start the weathering process. Thanks for the list of products – several materials on there that we weren’t familiar with.
-Andrew
By Markus Kolb, April 9, 2008 @ 5:07 pm

The comments about rainscreens in Europe are right-on, particularly as far as commercial projects are concerned (makes our cardboard houses with little wood furring strips and hardipanel seem pretty chincy). One thing that’s really interesting about many European implementations is the integration of an exterior insulation system, with extremely little thermal bridging, without any of the pitfalls of the EIF systems we tend to use Stateside. Check out the Erofox system, for example.
By Jon Wyman, April 15, 2008 @ 5:41 am

Great post. I am planning on using this system here in New England on a bank addition. Currently the building is a traditional modular two story structure with vinyl siding. To make it more commercial and modern looking, I was going to clad the addition in Cembonit panels, with some type of accent trim. Questions;

In your detailed images, I note that there are no EPT rubber underlaying strips. Is the detail a Cembonit application?

What would you suggest for trim (color matching is important) and would you make the trim part of the rainscreen or surface mount it, like a batten, on top of the Cembonit?

Thanks for any help.
By buildllc, April 15, 2008 @ 6:40 pm

Jon – The EPT rubber underlay is a component we’re just starting to use on rainscreens. It wasn’t a requirement with the Cembonite systems in the past but the mfr has included the rubber strips on the last couple of jobs – so we have incorporated it into the detailing. The rubber strips allow a bit more flexibility between the rigid panel and the vertical runners which are not always uniform. The EPT should really be in our detail as it is becoming more typical.
Trim is a tough one… being modernists and minimalists we’re usually looking for solutions to eliminate trim. A well designed rainscreen is very satisfying as a field of flush panels with crisp shadow reveals. In our own vocabulary I’d look to incorporate a “trim” in with the rainscreen system – flush with the panels but adding a geometry which breaks from the panels. It would be a shame to go to all the work of a rainscreen system and cover up the reveals with a trim or batten. Just our two cents…
By Jon Wyman, April 21, 2008 @ 7:05 am

Thanks for the info. As for your response about modernism and trim; I agree, but considering that I am trying to introduce the modern into a traditional building,I am detailing the rainscreen panels at varying thicknesses to ‘add a geometry that breaks from the panels’.
By Barbara Thompson, April 30, 2008 @ 9:53 am

We’re very interested in cladding our addition in Swiss Pearl. What are approximate costs for the material and shipping?
By Lori Bork, May 1, 2008 @ 11:46 am

This is great! Thanks for all the info. It’s exactly what I was looking for. I’m designing my own house in Athens, GA, and I’ve been investigating rainscreens as a way to use reclaimed unmilled lumber. I’m also interested in cor-ten. Did you over-size the screw holes and cover with neoprene in order to avoid oil-canning? I’m trying to figure out all the necessary detailing…..I’m also a little worried about rust colored run-off onto adjacent surfaces.
Thanks again!
By Lori Bork, May 1, 2008 @ 11:58 am

one more question about the cor-ten… Do you mind posting your supplier? I understand that U.S. Steel, who came up with the proprietary name, no longer manufactures it. I’ve found one alternative at weatheringsteel.com, but they don’t seem to have many built examples they can show me.
By buildllc, May 1, 2008 @ 5:20 pm

Barbara – The Swiss Pearl product was in the $7 per square foot range when we last used it a couple of years ago (not including shipping, machining or install). With shipping costs dramatically on the rise I would check with your local/regional supplier for these costs. The Swiss Pearl product is also very specific in terms of how it is machined and installed, subsequently adding to the costs. More so than similar products, you’ll want to carefully review the Swiss Pearl specifications and methods.
By buildllc, May 1, 2008 @ 5:31 pm

Lori – the supplier is: Corrugated Metals Inc. out of Chicago: http://www.corrugated-metals.com
We wanted flush mounted flat head screws in the cor-ten rainscreen, so we used a thicker cor-ten panel (~1/8″) and countersunk the fasteners. Oversizing the holes for expansion and contraction seems like a good detailing idea if the fasteners are to sit proud though. The cor-ten will most certainly discolor whatever is underneath.
By Barbara Thompson, May 5, 2008 @ 11:11 am

Thank you! Your blog is beyond helpful. As a homeowner designing/building our own home, there is so little information out there about options beyond James Hardie. Hopefully more people will take an interest in design and architecture and adapt more european and alternative building techniques and materials!
By Jon Wyman, May 23, 2008 @ 12:01 pm

I notice in your intro you mention Hardi-Panel as a rainscreen material. I am also finding it more difficult to get Cembonit panels in my area and the Swiss Pearl panels prove too costly. Can I really use Hardi-Panel in this application as you have detailed? Everything I find on the manufacturer’s website tells me that it is to be applied directly to sheathing. Thanks again.
By Andrew, May 23, 2008 @ 5:35 pm

Jon – you’ll want to check with Hardi on their warranty and whether or not using the material as a rainscreen voids their coverage, but we’ve seen it used as a true rainscreen around town. We’re noticing that with rainscreen systems becoming more common manufacturers are fine-tuning their installation techniques and sometimes modifying the warranty on the product (based on how its installed). If you’re in Seattle go check out Nicholas Court at 1413 15th Ave. If you’re not in the area here is a link to some photos of the project: http://www.urbanfundinc.com/nicholas.htm
By Greg, June 24, 2008 @ 12:34 pm

This is great discussion on rain screens. Check out this website I found. New product! It works with Vinyl siding, wood siding and Fiber cement siding

http://www.sidingmaster.com
By Griff, June 25, 2008 @ 7:13 am

Just stumbled on this and thought I recognised the clay product above. Looks similar to:

http://www.facade.co.nz/products/moeding-clay-tile-ventilated-facade-systems/

or:

http://www.australbricks.co.nz/nz/product_1897_terraade.php
By Ken Ethridge, AIA, RIBA, September 9, 2008 @ 5:58 am

Is anyone familiar with companies that can provide the fixing systems for phenolic rainscreen panels?
By chris delgrosso, October 16, 2008 @ 9:09 am

Hello all, Great to hear and see your phenolic rain screen system ideas. My Based in NY has been fabricating and supplying Formica brand solid compact phenolic rain screen systems for quite awile We are the exclusive partner of Formica Europe and formica USA to bring this exciding product to the north american market. please fell free to call me and I will send you a complete sample pack via fed x. keep up the good work….Chris delgrosso
Jhc INC
718-649-1661
chrisdelgrosso@msn.com
By Todd, February 25, 2009 @ 8:59 pm

We have been designing exteriors with Cembonit rainscreens on our last few projects here in central Canada. A common design issue is the cap flashing. We want minimal, ideal nothing. What have you found works best and how much venting are you leaving at the top? The Medina Residence looks to have no cap flashing ???
By buildllc, February 26, 2009 @ 12:55 pm

Todd – the cap flashing can actually be a fussy detail. You want something there to keep the sun off the membrane and debris out of the cavity of course. At the same time there is usually venting at the top of the wall and ideally the flashing is brought down further to protect the vent opening. The Medina residence does have flashing -it’s just a very small profile and is painted to match the panels. I’ll email you a couple of details we’ve been using. Stay tuned.
By Lewis Wadsworth, June 5, 2009 @ 10:31 am

Thank you for illustrating the fiber cement rainscreen system so clearly. I particularly appreciate the idea of using Trex for the vertical runners, something I hadn’t read of before.
By Build LLC, June 19, 2009 @ 10:12 am

SF Gate had a really good article on rainscreen panel options from March 22nd, 2009.
By Marcus, June 23, 2009 @ 10:18 am

Thanx for the effort to share your experience….. and thanx in advance….. if you could list readily available “skin” materials, other than Hard P for a west coast DYI. From Topanga Canyon, Ca.
By Build LLC, June 24, 2009 @ 8:18 am

Marcus – most of the panel products we like are not readily available (off the shelf). Most need to be ordered in advance. That said, here are some of our favorites:
Sil-Leed can be ordered through CBF
SwissPearl can be ordered through Pacific Architectural Products
Trespa can be ordered through Trespa North America
Parklex can be ordered through Finland Color Plywood Corp.
By eikoH, June 26, 2009 @ 8:42 am

Great post..I often return to brush up & check new replies (as I am now). For a future blog post, I’d love to see a follow-up to this one. Items such as window openings could be discussed in further detail: flashing properly, different window manufacturers and how they are installed (nailing flange vs. without, where installed in plane of wall), etc. Perhaps also, a return to projects at least a few years old to show how they’ve succeeded (or not).
I know I’m not the first to say it, but I admire the open discussion mindset!
By Build LLC, June 26, 2009 @ 8:46 am

@ eikoH – great idea, a follow up post would be very appropriate. we’ll get to work on it…
By Blake, June 30, 2009 @ 2:18 pm

We’re working on a museum project here in Louisiana and are considering a wood rain screen application. We haven’t ruled out an exposed fastener, but are currently leaning towards a concealed clip of some sort. We have been in contact with two companies that do this – Midwest Cypress and 1 Earth Forest Products. Do you guys know of any others out there? Thanks in advance for the help!
By Build LLC, July 3, 2009 @ 7:27 am

@ Blake – Trespa makes a concealed clip system that you might check out.
By SJ, July 3, 2009 @ 10:53 am

Blake – ALLFACE (www.allface.com) is a supplier of subframing atachment systems for use with various rear ventilated cladding products and offers a concealed fastening system that can potentially be used with wood materials. Cladding Corp (www.claddingcorp.com) is their domestic partner.

So it may be of interest to look at that type of approach. The wood supplier you consider will have to give some design input to help establish fastening guidelines. So you want to make sure the supplier can answer these kinds of questions (otherwise its difficult to size the fasteners and develop a fastening guideline).
By Scott, July 13, 2009 @ 8:30 am

Our client is interested in a fiber cement rainscreen for a residential re-clad, but is interested in sustainability-thus are there any domestically manufactured products?

Any experience with this application on existing 2 by 4 wall, cantilevered 4′ off the foundations-weight may be issue.

Finally, you might check out Nichiha products-the site emphasizes the cheesy uses of FCP but if you look at the Illumination/block series you get a more paneled look. We are interested in it as it has a concealed fastening system. Any one have experience with this product?

http://www.nichiha.com/prod_block_panels.htm
By Build LLC, July 14, 2009 @ 8:06 am

@ Scott – we don’t know of any domestic rainscreen products – most come from Europe. We wouldn’t advise using a rainscreen on a 2×4 wall at all (even without the cantilever) the system usually requires a bit more “meat” – it would be a good idea to have your structural engineer take a quick look at it. A lot of it depends on the weight of the panels you choose. The Nichiha site is a new one to us – thanks for getting that on our radar.
By John, July 27, 2009 @ 8:53 am

Would corrugated metal, I think someone posted rheinzink, work well as a rain screen or would it not be vented enough?
By Build LLC, July 27, 2009 @ 9:03 am

@ John – achieving a successful rainscreen with corrugated metal depends more on the detailing than on the corrugated sheets themselves. As long as you’re using 4′x8′ or 4′x 10′ sheets or smaller there should be enough ventilation at the reveals. You’ll also need to pay additional attention to the location and direction of the runners since corrugated panels aren’t stable in one dimension (depending on how you orient them).
By SJ, July 27, 2009 @ 8:08 pm

Good answer! Detailing is critical to assure proper ventilation. The critical factor is assuring that the base of the cavity and top of cavity encourage clear flow of air for ventilation. So for an horizontal orientation you do have to be careful that you don’t close off airflow (a vertical application would be a little easier to assure for obvious reasons). For corrugated, whether metal or fibercement, fastening distances are an important consideration too. These will be directed by your design loads, and something your supplier should be able to help you with. If you’re interested in some details that work for corrugated, check out ALLFACE at http://www.claddingcorp.com.
By eikoH, August 21, 2009 @ 9:19 am

Anyone ever used Poplar as your runners? I just had CBF suggest that as an option, along with Trex.

Incidentally, we were discussing why treated lumber isn’t a great option: apparently if rained on during installation, it’s chemicals can run-off and stain the cement panels. We are typically painting wood runners black, so I imagine this wouldn’t be as much of an issue. But it’s an interesting point that I hadn’t heard before. They suggested covering the runners over night until all the panels are installed. I guess you could also start installing panels at the top of the wall to avoid this issue.

Anyway, Poplar anyone?
By Build LLC, August 21, 2009 @ 10:08 am

@ eikoH – Poplar is inexpensive but isn’t resistant to decay (like cedar). Any real wood product also has a tendency to move a bit. We like Trex because it doesn’t need to be coated, is relatively stable and is a recycled material. They also come in a dark chocolate brown color which disappears nicely in the shadows.
By SJ, August 27, 2009 @ 9:16 pm

Why not try aluminum? The cost is comparable with both Cedar and Trex which are typically around $4/lf. And if you use an architectural grade (6063) aluminum, you get excellent corrosion resistance, longevity and strength. It is also more common to see aluminum come with recycled content since scrap aluminum is so abundant and easy to recycle. And it won’t stain cladding like galvanized steel or some unpainted woods can.

EikoH, why not consider an AURiA fibercement panel from Eternit (www.eternit.at). You can get a full system from them, with the panels cut to size, including shops. Whatever fibercement panel you consider, you need to make sure that it comes with a topcoating and edge treatment to make sure that it doesn’t experience efflorescence or fade under UV exposure. Also note that when cement effloresces, the lime residue can run onto adjacent materials during rainy periods, etching the surface of that product (a big problem with glass).
By Jon, October 8, 2009 @ 10:15 am

GREAT article! I have been looking for this kind of easy-to-understand information for awhile. I live in Portland and am looking to build a wood, open rain screen system on a studio in my backyard.

I’m wondering, can you recommend types of wood? i’ve seen people use Ipe, Western Red Cedar and even recycled pallets.

Thanks in advance!
By Jin, November 5, 2009 @ 8:03 am

Thanks so much for this article. I’m really glad to see it! I just want to note, your sentence, “Like most innovative building systems it was the Europeans that first introduced the concept,” to be quite off-base.
By TDI, November 6, 2009 @ 8:22 am

@Jin – that was a coat check at the front door – not a sense of humor check.
By Jason Wilen, March 11, 2010 @ 7:31 pm

Nice post. It is great to see a straightforward explanation of a simple rainscreen system. I love the picture/diagram.
By John Moore, June 11, 2010 @ 3:28 am

I am looking at a project that is calling out a solid phenolic siding panel,I am not familiar with the term and found this site while researching it. can someone explain it to me? is it a paticular product or a term describing a product?
By Build LLC, June 11, 2010 @ 5:11 am

@ John – “Phenolic” is a generic term for a plastic composite panel. These panels are manufactured by a variety of companies and have many different finished looks – for instance we just used phenolic panels on a project that have a wood grain veneer on the finished face.

Rainscreens

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